| You want to pump some serious HP into your PT Cruiser? |
| Well don't get carried away before you put some stronger pieces in that bottom end! |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| A brand spanking new short-block, with oil pan and front cover/oil pump will cost you $1,100-1,200 depending on how well you know your dealer's parts person! Most "used" engines will run that ... and you don't need over half the stuff you are going to get! ... Build this bottom end and forget worring ... "when she's gonna blow!!" |
| The idea here is, ... we are going to open up this new engine, or the one in your PT, and swap out the stock rods and pistons, for a set of 2.5 turbo rods and pistons that just happen to slip right in the engine! You boost over 10 psi for long, ...slam dunk that NOS shot too many times and you won't have to take them out! They're gonna come out on their own.Then, you will be spending the money anyway, ... but on "their" time schedule, ...not yours! |
| LOOK at the difference in the two rods. The one on the right, will not hold up to a lot of horses! The one on the left, will take just about anything you can dish out! I bought these turbo rods for under $45 ea from an auto supply house. The 2.5 turbo pistons were around $30 ea. They lower the compression and that is good for a turbo or SC engine. Once installed, we found the comp to be less than 8:1, a bit too low. Wisecos would work! Let's get some forged Wisecs at around 8.8:1 comp!! < The stock bearings, (though bright and shinney), are a Bi-metal construction, good for long wear and trash absorbtion. < The dull bearing, for the turbo rod is a Clevite 77 tri-metal material, design to hold up under the heavy loading produced by the turbo! The stock bearing will "squish out", from under the rod or smear, during hard use! They are different animals designed for different applications! |
| The PT pistons have a pretty big dome and the top ring is very close to the top of the piston, which could cause the top ring land to melt of fracture under heavy loading. Most turbo pistons have at keast .240" top land thickness. If you are neat and careful you can make "this" swap in about an hour, ... (with the new short block on the bench). I would suggest you have the rods and pistons match-balanced before swapping them out. I am going to leave the (balance-shaft assembly), out of my engine and see how much vibration there is. I have been told by three people that have done it, that the vib is barely noticeable. .. we'll see! Leaving it out, is good for power and helps the engine rev quicker. |
| Can I do this with a junkyard engine? ... yes. What if I don't want to lower my comp that much? Simply have the rods re-bushed to fit the 2.4 wristpin, (which is smaller) and use the orig pistons or the Stratus pistons, which have a smaller dome. If you want to go "ALL MOTOR" and bump the comp up! Have the rods off-set bushed and deck the block and you can get real close to 11 1 /2 : 1. Now instead of a $4000 turbo setup, you will be spending on the traditional things, to turn the motor over 8000 rpm to make the power. It's fun either way! ... Now you won't be crying the blues, when your motor's guts, ... are all over your shoes! |
| There is nothing wrong with the Crower/JE or other billet stuff. They are the best money can buy! You will spend ~ $1,2000.00 on those same parts! This approach is for "the fun of it", less than 500 hp and trying to get the most strength for the money! I think this is the way to go. You think nothing of laying down $5-600.00 on a stainless steel exhaust system! |
| Valve notches do need to be cut in the 2.5 pistons. This added machine operation along with the very low comp, makes the price of the Wisecos look even better! .. under $400 w/pins The 2.5's will work, but the added work is just not worth it for a cast piston, ... IMO |